Restaurant L’Almandin, Hotel Île de la Lagune, St Cyprien.

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John & Elaine
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Restaurant L’Almandin, Hotel Île de la Lagune, St Cyprien.

Post by John & Elaine »

Cor, what a cheek !

PO Life’s restaurant reviewer, John Frazer-Robinson, explores the Restaurant L’Almandin, at the Hotel Île de la Lagune. It’s a celebrity cheffed, Michelin starred establishment in Les Capellans, St Cyprien.

Food ****
Wine ***
Price ****
Service ****
Ambience/Location***

I came late on the hit movie ‘Slumdog Millionaire’. But since it’s debut on the global cinema circuits, whether you have seen the film itself, you’d practically need to have been a hermit to have escaped the hype that preceded it and indeed, followed it all the way to Oscarland. Winning eight category prizes from its ten nominations for British director and fellow Lancashire lad, Danny Boyle.

You’d be forgiven for wondering what on earth this has to do with lunch at L’Almandin in the presence of its celebrity chef and now author, Jean Paul Hartmann. The answer is hype. Both Mr Hartmann and L’Almandin are differently but similarly well hyped! The problem for Slumdog was there was no way it could live up to the hype and therefore, perhaps, a shade ironically it had set up its own disappointment for me.

Looking back on my lunch prepared by M Hartmann’s team, I wonder if the same isn’t true there – perhaps I’ve seen too much hype, for far too long and therefore the level of expectation demanded the impossible.

Let’s have a little history lesson to set the context. Jean Paul Hartmann is something of a legend in these parts. He is a Master Chef of France, a prominent Member of Toques Blanches du Roussillon, has held a Michelin star for 15 years, also starred in the Gault et Millau guide and quoted in the Bottin Gourmand among the 1000 best restaurants in France.

It was Hartmann who trained and mentored the culinary genius Frédérique Bacquié at the Neptune in Collioure before it was sold and slid down market. Bacquié was snapped up very wisely by La Ballette in Collioure and moved about 50 metres up the hill with, apparently, most of his team. Certainly having eaten at the Neptune a few times in its heyday (but still yet to try La Ballette) I remain ignorant of how much of that genius was the influence of its then German owner or Frédérique Bacquié himself. Bacquié, if my understanding is correct is the youngest chef in France to boast a Michelin star, and also acquired it for La Balette in record breaking time!

The reason I mention Bacquié, is because, on the basis of my experience, the talent of the pupil exceeds the talent of his teacher!

Just as an aside, and to conclude the history lesson, it’s the old team from La Ballette who have transformed Le Phare at St Cyprien into L’Atelier (the workshop), the name chosen to show how seriously they take their food!

To return to L’Almandin! Certainly, eating on the cheap probably isn’t the kindest thing to do to a chef or his restaurant. But then that has to be the risk taken by a restaurant which Wednesday to Friday offers a lunch menu – three courses for 29 Euros, two glasses of wine included. Let’s start with impressions. There was certainly an ample supply of crockery involved. Plenty of nibbly things on offer and, of course linen cloths and serviettes. Not to mention an impressive array of glassware. Swanky is the word that comes to mind! Perhaps I should be mentioning food!.....

In a nutshell posh pasta, pork and carrots, a pleasant coffee-flavoured dessert! OK, now let’s be fair and take you though it properly! As it appeared on the menu – Raviole de Gambas et St Jacques, Emulsion de Jus de Langoustine; Joue de porc et Carrottes confites; Paris-Brest à la crème Légère au Praliné, sauce Anglaise. It was preceded by two sets of ‘amuses bouches’, one before going to our excellently positioned table, and one after we were guided there.

In the hotel lounge we enjoyed bread and dippy things and some empty balls of a pastry nature – a bit like empty savoury profiteroles. All quite tasty and certainly getting the taste buds in training for more to come! At the table the smallest piece of morue I have ever seen accompanied by a half a teaspoon of green paste was served as a gift from the chef – tasty enough but one was tempted to wonder whether the amount served merited all the dishwashing which would have to follow!

The plates were cleared, new cutlery placed and dishwasher-fulls of more crockery arrived with the posh pasta. It seems that swanky restaurants have to serve their starters and mains on two plates the first containing food, the second bearing the first. The posh pasta was again, tasty enough. A large perfectly cooked ravioli containing gambas and scallops.

The bread rolls were home-baked posh bread which I was unimpressed with but helped to enlarge the portion sizes! Next up pork and carrots. Sorry! Make that posh pork and carrots. A small square dish containing four modestly sized pieces of probably the tenderest pork (cheeks) I have ever eaten on a mound of mandolin-thinly sliced carrots with some gravy-style sauce which might have been jus! Just!

It was delicious but not overwhelmingly so. And plated and served I found myself gazing at it a tad disappointed. Again it went down well enough. Now the ladies moment! Puds. Daringly served on just one dish. Or perhaps they were running out – it was quite busy for a teeming wet Wednesday. Imagine a ring doughnut cut to provide two half rings filled with coffee squidge and surrounded by a vanilla sauce containing toasted almond flakes. Thus speaks a man who is no fan of puds! I had the token mouthful because one has to in this business!!

The wines were a white I have not had before and a red Syrah, both pleasant but unexceptional. Again one has to wonder at one’s own expectation for 29 Euros!I wish the sommelier had taken more time to explain why he had chosen them and what, more precisely, they were.

Coffees were served with more little nibbly bits. Very good they were and that’s from a person who normally avoids sweet things. The coffees were unremarkable but pricey. The service was excellent. Discrete, timely, just enough smiley, courteous and sincere. And, if I may say, impressively so.

For some reason I draw to a close feeling I should perhaps apologise to Jean Paul Hartmann. Because in the unlikely event he might read this, a successful and undoubtedly earnest man might feel some English charlatan is giving his resto a hard time.

My beloved was quite cross with me when I said, as we braved the rain heading for the car, that I thought it was ‘underwhelming’. It was undoubtedly great value. It was a great ambience. And I imagine sitting on the terrace in the Summer, probably idyllic. And, in fairness, that day’s menu didn’t set me on fire. Perhaps I need to give it another go! But in future, I’ll ignore the hype!!

Restaurant L’Almandin
Hôtel Île de la Lagune
Boulevard de L’Almandin
Avenue Armand Lanoux
Les Capellans
St Cyprien 66750

Tél : 04 68 21 01 02
www.hotel-ile-lagune.com
Serge

Post by Serge »

I thought Slumdog was a good film and for me it did live up to the hype .............. :shock:

Sounds like you had set your expectations before you got there, which is not always a good idea ...
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Post by Santiago »

Ditto.

Your review seems to find no faults but still you're not impressed. What does this resto have to do for 29 € ?
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Post by john »

I can see what Serge and Santiago are saying here,but can also see where John is coming from too. I've not had the 29€ offering at Almandin,but some years ago ate in the evening there,and thought the price was pretty steep for what we had,which was in the "all style ,no substance" bracket for me.

This is,as John alludes to, the problem with hype. When places are hyped up,people DO tend to go with a preconceived notion.That is no bad thing. There are those ,of course ,who follow like lemmings to the latest hyped fad (eg El Bulli),just to say they've been there. Others (like me) tend to rail against anything that is hyped and have something of a "downer" on it as a result. Then there are those in the middle,perhaps like John,who are curious to see what all the fuss is about,and are left either impressed or underwhelmed.
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Post by Serge »

I just thought that a reviewer should report on their actual experience at the resto and not their disappointment because it did not meet their pre-conceived expectations ..................



No offence BTW John - you are doing a grand job ................. :lol:
Last edited by Serge on Thu 04 Mar 2010 11:57, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by blackduff »

john wrote:I can see what Serge and Santiago are saying here,but can also see where John is coming from too. I've not had the 29€ offering at Almandin,but some years ago ate in the evening there,and thought the price was pretty steep for what we had,which was in the "all style ,no substance" bracket for me.

This is,as John alludes to, the problem with hype. When places are hyped up,people DO tend to go with a preconceived notion.That is no bad thing. There are those ,of course ,who follow like lemmings to the latest hyped fad (eg El Bulli),just to say they've been there. Others (like me) tend to rail against anything that is hyped and have something of a "downer" on it as a result. Then there are those in the middle,perhaps like John,who are curious to see what all the fuss is about,and are left either impressed or underwhelmed.
I thought that the award of being the best restaurant in the WORLD is done by chefs themselves. Does this mean that the chefs of the world are the lemmings. To me, the chefs would think that El Bulli as being a fad and the award would to something more realistic with their foods.

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Post by john »

Sorry,don't follow that BD.

Are you suggesting that El Bulli has NOT been hyped ? Even Sr Adria admits it.

Yes,it has spawned its imitators. That always happens when people wish to jump on the bandwaggon.

I was talking about patrons;the type who slavishly follow whatever trend is currently in vogue. that's all.
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Post by Allan »

I enjoyed John F-R's review of L'Almandin. In an earlier review of a restaurant in Ceret, John closed with the comment
So, today, the morning after I am wondering if I am just be unfair or unkind in feeling that I might go back but am in no rush to do so.

I think this is a pretty fair test of a restaurant, you might find nothing obviously wrong with the food, service and ambiance but if it doesn't make you want to go back then it probably wasn't a spectacular experience. John's feeling of being underwhelmed is another indication of this sentiment.

We first went to L'Almandin nearly 4 years ago when we were house hunting in the region; at that time knew nothing of its reputation or that of its chef. We were sent there by their sister hotel, Les Flamands Roses in Canet ( where the restaurant was awful ) at the time we thought it was a pretty good hotel restaurant, so much so that we stayed at the Ile de la Lagune on our next visit. As a hotel restaurant it was great, although their themed evenings can be a bit bizarre, one meal had all courses made from fois gras.


I have to say, I am not really aware of that much hype surrounding this restaurant, any more so than any of the other Michelin starred restaurants in the PO most of which are good but unexciting (We haven't yet tried La Ballette in Collioure).
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Post by john »

Allan wrote:the other Michelin starred restaurants in the PO most of which are good but unexciting .
At precisely what point does food/a restaurant cease to be "unexciting" and become " exciting", Allan?
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Post by Allan »

john wrote:
Allan wrote:the other Michelin starred restaurants in the PO most of which are good but unexciting .
At precisely what point does food/a restaurant cease to be "unexciting" and become " exciting", Allan?
When its tucked around the coast from Roses John

Excitement is in the mind of the diner and what is exciting to me would undoubtedly not excite others. Surely you don't really need me to explain the difference.

There are some restaurants where you think wow! that was great and others where you think 'it was OK'.

John's test of would I rush back is a pretty good one. Take your despised El Bulli. I asked them for a table for any lunch or dinner on any day during the year, if I get one I will go, whichever country I am in at the time, the place excited me that much. On the other hand there are pleanty of local restaurants where the offer of a free meal wouldn't justify the drive to Perpignan.
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Post by john »

Allan wrote:. Surely you don't really need me to explain the difference.

.
Allan,I'm not in the habit of wasting my time asking questions to which I already know the answer.

So that's why I posed it.

Like you,I love visiting restaurants,albeit from a rather different perspective,objective(not to mention price bracket) from you. For example,at no point to you mention value for money in your long,thoughtful explanation. To me that is interesting. You see ,what "excites " me is the thought of getting excellence in cooking,but having paid a moderate price,and a bonus would be if it was unknown by the world and his wife. No hype is a must.

I guess,that's why El Bulli doesn't interest me,but a small,unknown place just up the coast, where I can eat memorably for a tenth of the price, does.
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Post by Allan »

john wrote: Like you,I love visiting restaurants,albeit from a rather different perspective,objective(not to mention price bracket) from you. For example,at no point to you mention value for money in your long,thoughtful explanation. To me that is interesting. You see ,what "excites " me is the thought of getting excellence in cooking,but having paid a moderate price,and a bonus would be if it was unknown by the world and his wife. No hype is a must.
John value for money undoubtedly comes into it along with other criteria, perhaps it isn't my biggest focus. I stand by an earlier posting in which I expressed the view that El Bulli is great value, equally some of the €12 menus in Perpignan are not. I like to balance the price that I pay with what I get, rather than looking for bargains all the time.

For me it is about the total experience, one of our most memorable meals was in a forest outside St Tropez run by what looked like a group of refugees from the film 'Deliverance' They only sold barbecued chicken but it was brilliant and ludicrously cheap.

Wherever the restaurant excellence in cooking is the primary consideration - hype doesn't bother me one way or another as I like to form my own opinion.
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Post by john »

OK then. Lets get down to brass tacks.

I have a birthday coming up and my wife and I will no doubt go out for a meal.

Perhaps you can tell me of a restaurant within 2 hrs radius of Perpignan that you can personallyrecommend that fulfils all your excitement criteria. On this occasion,price need not be a measure(within reason). I assume EB is out,as it's closed,and we couldn't get in anyway.

In fact,better give 3 in case they are closed/full.

PS. Like you I vividly remember a chicken BBQ place in Northern Portugal called simply A Casa Dos Frangos (the House of Chickens). Superb.
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Post by Allan »

How could I refuse a challenge like that? Give me until after the weekend to think about it.

PM me with the date John so I know where will be open.

I presume you will respond in kind with your own suggestions
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Post by Santiago »

I think I would refuse that challenge, Allan.

The problem is that what excites you is unlikely to impress John. Although you both love eating out, your reasons for doing so are different (from what you've written).

I think everyone on this forum has a different set of criteria by which we rate restaurants.

What I look for is a really enjoyable experience. Sometimes that can depend on the company, state of mind, weather, timing, or other customers rather than any consistent quality of the restaurant.

For recommendations, I value several positive comments from different people above the report, however detailed and discerning, of a single dining experience.

That's not saying I don't value John F-R's reviews. I would just like to hear more views, endorsements or repudiations.
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Post by john »

Santiago wrote:I think I would refuse that challenge, Allan.

The problem is that what excites you is unlikely to impress John. Although you both love eating out, your reasons for doing so are different (from what you've written).

.
I see what you are saying here Santiago,and there is some truth in what you say,but the reason why I asked Allan is that he has a vast experience of local restos,esp at the "top end" of the market.

I have been criticised for being closed minded about criteria by which to judge eating places,so I just felt that ,in response to that,if I were to visit a place that someone else finds "exciting",then I might look at things from a fresh angle;through someone else's eyes ,if you like.
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Post by Rivesaltes Johnny »

Going back to John's original revue I would like to say this is... I ate many years ago at this restaurant and was impressed but not so much I wanted to rush back. In fact still yet to revisit... I felt it was good hotel food... which says it all.

I found John's revue to be both informative and entertaining... well written - in fact what a revue should be...

My recommendations for a night out would be Maison du Terrior in Maury, Table de St Crescent in Narbonne or Al Tres in Perpignan. The first two are more fine dining than the third one. I would however want to know more about what John's wife likes and dislikes are to make an informed decision. It is not just about one person!!!

I have made a living out of restaurant reviewing and what is one persons love is anothers hate so a risky business!!! For me "would I recommend to a good friend" and secondly "would I be prepared to drive a hundred miles" are two criteria I adopt before I would recommend to anyone.

Reviewing restaurants is very subjective... I have eaten some fantastic food in the most unlikely places and been lucky to be paid to test some of the best restaurants in the UK and been fortunate enough to dine at some of Europes finest over the years.

For me price is never a deciding reason to choose a place to eat... at the end I might decide was it good value or not but never before hand. I have spent in excess of £300 for a lunch (cash) some twenty years ago and still remember the meal today. Equally the equivalent of £5 in Turkey some thirty years ago was equally memorable but for very different reasons.

As I said it is all subjective...Good luck Allan on your recommendations...
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Post by john »

Rivesaltes Johnny wrote: My recommendations for a night out would be Maison du Terrior in Maury, Table de St Crescent in Narbonne or Al Tres in Perpignan. The first two are more fine dining than the third one. I would however want to know more about what John's wife likes and dislikes are to make an informed decision. It is not just about one person!!!


Surely any top end restaurant worth its salt,Johnny,should have chefs who are able to create good dishes that will appeal to a wide range of people,not just a few "foodies" who are looking at things from one person's very narrow standpoint?

That is why I asked Allan to clarify what he meant by "exciting".

Of course,there are examples where a match cannot be made (eg if you don't like spicy food there's little point in recommending an Indian or Thai place!),but in the main both my better half and I are pretty broadminded,so there would be no worry of offending us, if as I say,the chefs are flexible enough to have a varied menu.

As regards your choices: Don't know the place in Narbonne,but have visited the one in Maury(OK but overpriced, to my mind) and have eaten several times at Al Tres ( did a review on it in PO Life) and the food /VFM is excellent,though I find the metal chairs/tables hideously uncomfortable.
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Post by thumbelina »

john wrote: Perhaps you can tell me of a restaurant within 2 hrs radius of Perpignan that you can personallyrecommend that fulfils all your excitement criteria.
OK, so I'd like to get in on the act :D :D :D :D

My two choices would be El Pati and Villa Mas


http://www.hotelelpati.net/en/index.htm

http://forum.anglophone-direct.com/ftopic6239.php
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Post by john »

Thanks fo these suggestions ,Thumbers. I did take a look at Pati once,on the way through Perellada but unfortunately it was shut. I assume it was their "day off".

Don't know Villa Mas.I suppose it is at the very furthest extremity of the "2 hrs fr Perps" rule,but looks worthy of a try if in that vicinity.
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Post by thumbelina »

lol

It takes an hour and a half from Ceret, John (less if you go in the week!)

I guess it must have been El Pati's day off; have to say, I've only been there when its been warm enough to eat on the terrace and I would go back tomorrow!

My parents also quite like the Aiguablava Hotel, but I've not been there.

http://www.aiguablava.com/es/

I also quite like Les Panolles at Santa Cristina d'Aro but don't rate it in the same league as the other two.
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Post by Allan »

john wrote:OK then. Lets get down to brass tacks.

I have a birthday coming up and my wife and I will no doubt go out for a meal.

Perhaps you can tell me of a restaurant within 2 hrs radius of Perpignan that you can personallyrecommend that fulfils all your excitement criteria. On this occasion,price need not be a measure(within reason). I assume EB is out,as it's closed,and we couldn't get in anyway.

In fact,better give 3 in case they are closed/full.
Remember John, these are against my criteria, not yours.

My number one choice would be El Celler de Can Roca just north of Girona and handy for Ceret.

Heading North the Auberge du Vieux Puits at Fontjoncouse ( it is closed for holidays until next week).

The Auberge du Cellier at Montner fills most of my criteria, the chef is creative, communicative and welcoming.

In Perpignan nowhere ticks all the boxes, for food the Double Y is excellent but you have to put up with the decor. The food at the Barathym is also very good. The food at Le Chap again is excellent but it feels too much like a hotel restaurant (which it is).

Most of my other favourite restaurants are only open in summer.

We are going to La Balette in Collioure for lunch today, I'm hoping it will be good, if it is I may add it to the list.
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Post by blackduff »

I liked the Barathym but mostly for a great ambiance. This place was full of young people on a Friday evening. The food was great but they were not creating rocket science fuel. Good service even though the place was full. What more can a person want.

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Post by john »

Thanks Allan.

We've been to all the places you mention in Perps,and all 3 are very acceptable,though not as good VFM as Al Tres imho.

You are not the first to say good things about Can Roca. We must try it.

Montner is another,but a bit of a faff to get to(though not for you,of course!). Wouldn't have the foggiest where Fontjoncouse is,I'm afraid.

Just don't like Collioure as a place. We've had some dreadful experiences there,so I guess we're a bit biased.
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Post by Allan »

john wrote:Thanks Allan.

Wouldn't have the foggiest where Fontjoncouse is,I'm afraid.

Just don't like Collioure as a place. We've had some dreadful experiences there,so I guess we're a bit biased.
Fonjoncouse is in the Corbieres west of Sigean and about 3/4 hour drive from Perpignan so probably a bit far from you but definitely a rising star in the restaurant world.

Never eaten at Al Tres but will give it a whirl, as far as value for money goes, the set menu at Le Chap was excellent value and had choices that we would have made anyway from La Carte.

We went to La Balette in Collioure for lunch today, food service and wine were absolutelely perfect but I kept looking longingly at the beautiful terrace outside and thinking I should come back on a sunny day. I think lunch there overlooking the bay in the sunshine with friends would be a magical experience. It was however quite pricey though they did park my car for me which is just as well since they don't appear to have a car park.
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Post by Rivesaltes Johnny »

Auberge du Vieux Puits at Fontjoncouse just been awarded 3 stars with Michelin in the 2010 guide

I have had some very interesting food at the Table de St Crescent in Narbonne... set menus with wines chosen to go with the food are good value for money
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Post by john »

Rivesaltes Johnny wrote:Auberge du Vieux Puits at Fontjoncouse just been awarded 3 stars with Michelin in the 2010 guide
Just Googled this place.

105€ per head ,just for the menu. ???!!!!!

No,a little out of my price bracket I'm afraid. Thanks anyway.
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