Interesting Restaurants in the Vallespir and other PO?

[Kate]

Was it previously Mar I Bouddha?

Ah yes. Thanks. That was it. We went there a couple of years ago and found the service surly and the food very average but the change of ownership has sorted that out.

Must say, I find a lot of restaurants work hard on their menus at this time of year and it all goes to pot once the summer season starts, when they don’t have the time to put the effort in.

[Florence]

They´re not too worried during the holiday season as people will probably only eat once or twice during their stay and locals will avoid the crowds.

[martyn94]

I think that this is a constant. I lived for three years in Cambridge and 30 years in Greenwich, two of the most touristy places in Europe, and you couldn’t get a decent feed at any price. The last time I returned to Greenwich, Pizza Express (as always) and Jamie’s Italian (God save us) were the pick of the crop. Even the Chinese/Vietnamese places were even worse than they used to be.

[Kate]

Had calcots at the Transit opposite Lidle in Figueres - absolutely fabulous, supplied with apron and rubber gloves - followed by a mixed grill. Excellent ‘qualité prix’ and well worth the visit. My husband thought it looked a bit like a canteen when we walked in. It’s like Dr. Whos time machine - from the front looks tiny but when you walk inside, it’s really big. very clean and modern.
http://anglophone-direct.com/calcots-calcotadas/

Also want to Les Enfants Terribles in Laroque - always excellent - and the Salamander in Sorède. Very high standard of cuisine.

Finally, we had roast beef and Yorkshire pudding on the top floor of a red London bus at the red bus cafe in Castello, with rhubarb crumble and draft Guinness. Cheap, plenty, doesn’t pretend to be anything it’s not and an absolute treat!

[Santiago]

I think that this is a constant. I lived for three years in Cambridge and 30 years in Greenwich, two of the most touristy places in Europe, and you couldn’t get a decent feed at any price. The last time I returned to Greenwich, Pizza Express (as always) and Jamie’s Italian (God save us) were the pick of the crop. Even the Chinese/Vietnamese places were even worse than they used to be.

I don't know Greenwich but your assessment of Cambridge is well out of date. I sell wine to Cambridge Wine Merchants who have several great restaurant accounts. e.g. Chop House, Alimentum, Smokehouse, Varsity, ... Every time I go there I find excellent new additions.

[martyn94]

So I have gathered. It’s forty-odd years out of date. The economic profile of Cambridge must have changed radically in the intervening years. Much more local demand, and money, for decent food, not just academics drinking claret at High Table. Usually excellent, on the rare occasions I got any of my college’s stuff. Some colleges were more indulgent to the undergrads: I used to visit a friend at St John’s to drink Chateau Talbot for threepence. Though the food was dire.

[martyn94]

While I’m down memory lane, there was a time in the 70s when half the staff at HM Treasury used to trek westwards to eat at the restaurant at what is now Tate Britain. The food was average, but the wine was very well bought, and sold at a tiny mark-up on what they had paid for it ten years earlier (at a time of galloping inflation): museum curators are very cultivated, but were not very good at money in those days. (Treasury civil servants are very cultivated too, but also good at money: I was only there on loan). It got so notorious that it was much cheaper than retail that they introduced a rule requiring you to have it opened and actually drink it on site. They still ran out pretty quickly, even so.

I’ve always liked the persistence of BYO in Australia, though rarer (and the corkage higher) than it used to be.

[Richard and Sharon]

On the topic of interesting restaurants, 5eme peche in Collioure deserves a shout out. Japanese owner/chef Masashi Iijima delivers creative fusion of Japanese and Catalan flavours. I am not generally a fan of fusion, but this is done beautifully and it works.
Typically for good restaurants and for Collioure, it is not cheap eats, but I think it is decent value considering the quality. My guess is he will gain a Michelin star before too long, so maybe worth trying before it inevitably gets more expensive.
A tip if you enjoy watching a talented chef at work, ask for a seat at the counter rather than a table.

[Kate]

May I add that one into the short reviews in the mag please Richard and Sharon. Sounds interesting and different. Anything more to add about it?

[Richard and Sharon]

You can but.... We enjoyed the menu dégustation there immensely in mid January, but my memories of the detail are sadly fading. We have a reservation for lunch in April, may I write a short review after that?

[Kate]

Yes please....though too late for the spring edition that goes out first week April. Thanks anyway in advance.

[GrahamC]

Hi Daniel,

We’re just up the road from you. El Simiots is frankly the only decent retaurant in Arles. Les Glycines has been such a dissappointment. We had high hopes after the change of ownership but they seem to spend more time shut than open.

In Montferer the creperie is fun, especially listening to the patron’s collection of Pink Floyd on vinyl.

By far the best restaurant in the Vallespir that we’ve found is the Bellevue in Prats de Mollo. Not very prepossessing from the outside but wow the food is abaolutely superb. Close to Michelin star standard when we last visited.

[collioure]

Since we moved to Perpignan we dine frequently at Arbequina in Thuir. Smart, modern cooking, well-selected wines, excellent service. Irresistible dessert - the Chocol@cara.mel.
https://www.arbequina-restaurant.com/la-carte.html

In Laroque we love les Enfants Terribles.

[Kate]

Couldn’t agree more. Both excellent in different ways. Have you also tried the Salamander in Sorède? Another superb restaurant experience.

[GrahamC]

Haut Vallespir - 2nd Update 2022

I think it’s probably safe to say that no one visits the Haut Vallespir for its culinary delights

In Arles sur Tech, El Simiots is now closed. No bad thing since, after its take-over, things went downhill rapidly. Les Glycines is now permanently closed, following the untimely death of one of its owners. The Pizzeria is pretty dreadful for all but pizza - which is good. Everything else is via a microwave.

The El Cortal Creperie at Corsavvy is OK. The likeable old rogue who used to own it sold out to a Franco-Dutch family a couple of years ago. So, no more vinyl LPs playing Pink Floyd. The menu is limited but perfectly OK and excellent value. Spectacular views from the terrace (Egyptian vultures cruising past last night) and, unlike before, the place is open regularly now. Like most eateries in the Haut Vallespir, El Cortal is finding times are hard. So, use it or lose it.

Up past St Laurents, Club Falgos has a large, empty dining room. Last time we went was for lunch on the terrace, which was OK. Fine after a round of golf, but not worth a special trip all the way up the mountain.

The biggest surprise for us was Prats de Mollo. Not a single place to eat last night (18 May). In season (June onwards?) the centre ville has good eating places with friendly staff. The Temps de Cerises (see earlier post) is prior booking only. Not open last night but we plan to give it a go because the Diamant Noir used to be excellent.