Public Transport Around Pyrénées Orientales

bernardh198 · Post by **bernardh198** » Fri 31 Dec 2010 11:52

Could someone fill me in about local transport in Pyrénées Orientales.

I am trying to decide whether or not to rent an apartment in Amilie-les-Bains-Palalda for the coming summer [July & August] and thought forum members may be able to help me make up my mind.

I will not have a car in France and will rely on public transport to get me around. I have tried to look for buses and trains in this area on the SNCF and Conseil General Pyrénées-Orientales websites but my French just isn't up to it.

I have found out that Perpignan has a bus system but am not sure how far inland it extends because the names on their maps are too small to make out. There seems to be a 340 bus that goes between Perpignan and la Preste which goes through Amelie-les-Bains, but I cannot find a timetable or a readable route map online.

I wanted to use Amilie-les-Bains-Palalda as a base for walking, cycling, swimming and trips further afield on buses, the TGV and Translien network but have problems walking up slopes and stairs because of a chronic frayed Achilles tendon.

If it's going to be painful just getting around I will have to look somewhere else.

Hope there is someone here who can help me decide.

Bernard [in Brisbane, Australia]

john · Post by **john** » Fri 31 Dec 2010 12:05

Well,Bernard,there's a whole mass of info to take into account here.

My first reaction is that ,if you are having problems with hills/slopes,and will need access to regular public transprt links,then Amelie LB would not be the wisest place to base yourself in PO. You are correct in saying that Perpignan has by far the best public transport options here,and the much flatter Roussillon plain has pretty good links also. The coastal strip is well served too,but,if it's Jul/Aug you're thinking of coming,then places there are packed,and rental costs are at their highest.

There are,frankly ,people who are much better qualified than me to advise you on the minutae of the PO public transport network,but,as someone who lives in the Ceret/Amelie area,I know that most of the walking possibilities involve steep slopes,and the public transport options are comparatively scarce.

thumbelina · Post by **thumbelina** » Fri 31 Dec 2010 12:43

Hi Bernard
Welcome to the forum.

If you have mobility problems, Amelie les Bains is not the best place for you to stay - it is just too hilly. (The Rte des Thermes, for example, makes a relatively active person pant when they walk up it!! lol)

In my opinion, you would probably be better looking further down the valley or on the plaine for accommodation - sadly, though, the plaine may be more expensive as it is nearer to the coast and you are talking high season. If you look around Maureillas / St Jean Pla de Corts or Le Boulou, you may find something more reasonably priced however.

With regard to your public transport question, from December 2010 there are 11 buses a day from Amelie les Bains.

If you click this link

http://www.cg66.fr/553-plan-et-horaires.htm#par6616

and then this heading

Arles sur Tech - Amélie les bains - Perpignan 340-341

a pdf document bus timetable will download.

There will, obviously, be more buses in high season.

Good luck!

thumbelina · Post by **thumbelina** » Fri 31 Dec 2010 13:00

Just as an afterthought, if you are not that bothered about being close to Perpignan and the coast, had you considered Bourg Madam as a base? That may also be worth looking in to.

ruby · Post by **ruby** » Fri 31 Dec 2010 13:20

Hi

I can help you with rentals in Perpignan city centre and Toulouges may be a good choice.
Visit my site or email me for details.

ryanm63 · Post by **ryanm63** » Fri 31 Dec 2010 15:20

Bernard

I agree with other forum members on this one, although public transport is good, you sound as if somewhere less hilly, maybe near Perpignan, or along the bottom part of the valley would suit you best. I know the Tet valley best (Le Soler, Millas, Ill-Sur-Tet - I have a holiday home in Millas), which has some good walks, shops, restaurants and cultural opportunities, as well as a great valley public transport system.... If you go onto google map and click the 'more' button, and then terrain, you can get an idea of the type of area (hills) the different locations bring. Send me a private post if you want more specific info around Millas.

bernardh198 · Post by **bernardh198** » Fri 31 Dec 2010 15:48

Bonjour a tous,

Well that was quick. Many, many thanks for your valuable responses.

I would very much like to stay in Amilie-les-Bains if it is at all feasible. As long as I can get to and from the village by regular public transport, I can do my walking, cycling and swimming on the coastal plain.

I see there is also a rail line from Perpignan to Ceret - is there a timetable online? I intend to get a monthly ticket and investigate Pyrenees Orientale in some detail by bus/train/bicycle.

Again, many thanks. That timetable was right under my nose.

If there is anything else you think this foreigner should know, I would very much appreciate any additional posts.

Cheers,

Bernard

blackduff · Post by **blackduff** » Fri 31 Dec 2010 15:55

Okay, everybody says that the coastal area is too expensive but if it's the "Right" place, that's the place to be.

Check out Argeles sur Mer. First, you can take the train direct from Perpignan or even you could jump onto the train again and head to Barcelona.

Argeles is the beginning of the mountains but it's also a great large sandy beach. This web site is just a photo album of the area around Argeles, and it's the area I live. The photos are all within 20 kms of the Argeles Beach.

http://www.pyreneesmediterraneanliving.com/

For biking, it's great. You can ride along the coastal roads or you could ride up into the mountains. Walking is also great in that area.

Once you decide the type of housing, then post again and we can give you more price costs.

You'll enjoy Pyrenees Orientales.

Blackduff

thumbelina · Post by **thumbelina** » Fri 31 Dec 2010 16:00

I live in the Vallespir after Amelie les Bains and it IS possible to get the bus out of Amelie, no problem. You could also cycle ALONG the Vallespir (certainly in the direction of the coast).

There is no working train line in the Vallespir any more,however, you would be entirely dependent on buses.

On the 'flat part' of Amelie, there is a Leader Price supermarket on the edge of town, there are several pharmacies, bakeries and butchers along with numerous cafés and bars. There is a fruit and veg market every day and a larger market every Thursday morning.

My only concern would be the situation of your rental property. If it is up around the Thermes or the Route des Thermes you would struggle to get back up to it on foot - although there is, of course, a navette which runs around the town too.

Don't hesitate to ask any more questions that you may have, Bernard.

Helen · Post by **Helen** » Fri 31 Dec 2010 17:32

Hi Bernard, I've had a flat in Amelie for several years and whilst it's true that it's surrounded by hills, a lot of the town is on the flat. If you're careful about where you choose to live within the town ie not up by Les Thermes, or in Palalda, then you could probably survive quite well if Amelie is where you'd like to stay

I've found I can survive there without having the use of a car. The little daily market is a bonus (and no-one looks at you strangely if you just buy a few things), there are a number of cafes, a good range of food shops in the town centre- from two teensie supermarkets in the centre to butchers and a fish shop.

There are some lovely walks to be had along the river - nearly all on the flat!

And then there's the bus which others have written about. Last time I used it, it was 1Euro into Perpignan - in fact every journey in the 66 was 1 euro, but I don't know if that initiative is still running.

Serge · Post by **Serge** » Fri 31 Dec 2010 18:12

ruby wrote:Hi

I can help you with rentals in Perpignan city centre and Toulouges may be a good choice.
Visit my site or email me for details.

blackduff · Post by **blackduff** » Fri 31 Dec 2010 18:14

From Amelie to the beach is a fair ride on a bike but it's bikeable. The tough part is coming back to Amelie after the beach.

I would guess that it's about 80 kms out and back. From the beach to about Le Boulou, this is flat but going towards Ceret, it's a small climb. From Ceret to Amelie, it's a bigger climb but rideable.

My comments are based on an average biker riding a light road bike. If you're bringing a heavy bike, it's going to be difficult to make those amounts.

From Ceret to Argeles, you can ride all kinds of nice small roads in the summer time. Overall the car drivers are pretty good and give you lots of place on the road.

You'll enjoy your time in PO.

Blackduff

bernardh198 · Post by **bernardh198** » Sat 01 Jan 2011 08:14

G'day again,

All this first hand information is invaluable. It makes me more determined than ever to take the apartment I have found in Amilie-les-Bains - it's in Avenue du Vallespir and overlooks a small market square, somewhere near the Cafe de Paris.

I haven't checked it out yet - other than what is given on the website and Google Maps - because I wanted to make sure staying there was doable. Even if there is a problem and it isn't available, I will look for something else in the area.

I was thinking of renting a bike in Perpignan after coming down from Amilie by bus, using the BIP network, so I don't have to contend with excessively strenuous slopes. My foot problem is agravated by walking down slopes and stairs rather than up them.

Bernard

thumbelina · Post by **thumbelina** » Sat 01 Jan 2011 08:44

That is in the 'flat' section, Bernard.

blackduff · Post by **blackduff** » Sat 01 Jan 2011 09:40

There's a good bike shop in Ceret. I think it's called Fun Bike or something similar. They sell both new and used bikes. Not sure if they rent bikes but it's worth the time to call them on the phone. I have bought quite a bit of equipment at this store and I would suggest them for bike questions.

Blackduff

bernardh198 · Post by **bernardh198** » Sat 01 Jan 2011 12:03

thumbelina,

It seems I didn't explain myself adequately. I intend to do all my bike riding in the 'flat section' while living in the hilly section. I hope to travel between these two sections by bus.

Bernard

blackduff · Post by **blackduff** » Sat 01 Jan 2011 13:07

Bernard
I just figured out that you plan to use the BIP bike system in Perpignan. That's fine, as far as Perpignan rentals are available. But, if you take one of the bikes, it must be back within a 24 hrs period. But using the bus back and forth from Amelie, this would be good.

I'm not sure how often is the bus from Perpignan to Amelie. These buses are not as frequent as a person would appreciate. If you want to go to Perpignan early in the morning, it would take the better part of an hour. Same for coming home. You give only a small amount of time within the Perpignan region riding the bike.

I guess I would have to understand what part is "Flat" and what part is "Hilly".

Blackduff

john · Post by **john** » Sat 01 Jan 2011 13:34

I'd certainly agree with BD here. Amelie,nice place as it is, perhaps would not have enough attractions to keep you amused,Bernard ,for two months! So,as you say,you'd want to get out and about,and as BD points out,you'd spend a lot of time on (very slow)buses travelling the same road,day after day. Is there any particular reason why you really want to base yourself there? Most people who go there are there to do a "cure" at the Thermes.

I think there's a lot in what Thumbelina says about looking into the possibility of accommodation further down the Vallespir/Alberes (eg Maureillas,Le Boulou, Laroque etc). You'd spend a lot less time doubling back on yourself,and the public transport options are,as BD says ,more varied. By the way,the train line that goes to Le Boulou is freight only,unfortunately.

bernardh198 · Post by **bernardh198** » Sat 01 Jan 2011 13:56

The winter timetable has 11 buses daily from Amelie-les-Bains except on Sundays when there are only four. They start around 5:30 am and return from Perpignan around 8:30 pm.

The summer timetable may have even more. It comes into effect on the 2nd July. I hope to arrive in Amelie-les-Bains on the 1st. The trip takes about an hour and a half each way, leaving a maximum of 12 hours on the coast [the flat part].

I had also planned to use more than one bike, making many small trips of 30 mins to an hour, interspersed with sight-seeing on foot and by bus.

Does anyone know any details about the BIP system? From their French only website I cannot determine if tourists, rather than residents, can access the bikes - nor how they define "resident". Is two months residency enough?

Bernard

bernardh198 · Post by **bernardh198** » Sat 01 Jan 2011 14:22

John,

You may well be right, though I had planned to take three train trips, of about 3 or 4 days each, to other parts of France - Brittany, The Alps and the Ardech perhaps - using a Eurail Pass over the two-month period.

The local area itself, which I can access by bus to its terminus at La Preste, should consume some of my time - apart from enjoying the apartment and the village, what with shopping, cooking, cleaning and just relaxing.

Having said this, I have yet to learn how many stairs are involved in accessing the flat. I don't fancy lugging groceries, luggage and other bits and pieces up and down many flights of stairs.

I have had so many suggestions from froum members that if this apartment isn't suitable, I will look for somethimg a little closer to the coast.

Cheers,

Bernard

john · Post by **john** » Sat 01 Jan 2011 14:47

bernardh198 wrote: Having said this, I have yet to learn how many stairs are involved in accessing the flat. I don't fancy lugging groceries, luggage and other bits and pieces up and down many flights of stairs.

I have had so many suggestions from froum members that if this apartment isn't suitable, I will look for somethimg a little closer to the coast.

Cheers,

Bernard

That's something that's certainly worth looking into Bernard. I'm always quite surprised by how many 4 or 5 storey blocks of apartments (some relatively modern) are not served by lifts around here.

Do not underestimate how tortuously slow the main Vallespir road is,particularly at the upper (Prats de Mollo ) end. It's not the frequency of buses that's the problem,but the actual amount of time you'd spend on them. There's so much to see and do in this region,it would be a pity to spend a substantial chunk of your trip sitting on a Conseil Generale bus!

Post by **Kate** » Sat 01 Jan 2011 15:05

Hi Bernard
I researched this last year so it might be a little out of date but cant be too far off.
http://www.anglophone-direct.com/BIP-On-yer-bike?

I live in Maureillas near Ceret and often head off to the coast on my bike.
It's flat and mostly off road (on small roads with little or no traffic) and totally flat. I usually head for Argelès then on to Port Vendres or Saint Cyprien. I love it and sing all the way... unbeatable way to spend the day.
There is also an old disused railway track from just below Amelie all the way into Ceret (with just one bit of on road) - cycling and walking opportunities are infinite.

Helen · Post by **Helen** » Sat 01 Jan 2011 16:04

Bernard only you know what you would like to do whilst spending a couple of months in France - tho' I'm guessing that because you're opting to spend all the time with just one base, you want to spend a bit of time 'being', rather than careering madly around.

If that's true, then Amelie may well suit. The location of the apartment you're interested in, couldn't be more central - so much would be on your doorstep: cafes, shops, the bus station. I've discovered from experience it's very easy to while away days in Amelie, just pottering...

A few more thoughts to put your way:
- July/August can get very hot. You may want to think about an apartment with air con
- the main bus company in the PO, Courriers Catalans, runs excursions from Amelie throughout the year. There's a link here to the excursions running at the moment: http://www.courrierscatalans.com/exec/h ... umRub=1101 I can only assume that it's worth their while doing this as the curistes who are in Amelie for three weeks or so, also like to explore
- and in the first week of August there will be an International Folk Festival in Amelie. Here's last year's programme http://www.anglophone-direct.com/Amelie ... ns-Palalda
- last thought. French. Definitely worth brushing up on the basics to help you get by - be your stay in Amelie or anywhere else in the region

Happy planning!

john · Post by **john** » Sat 01 Jan 2011 16:23

Helen wrote:Bernard only you know what you would like to do whilst spending a couple of months in France - tho' I'm guessing that because you're opting to spend all the time with just one base, you want to spend a bit of time 'being', rather than careering madly around.

To be fair,Helen,the origin of Bernard's request (and the title of the thread !) was surrounding the situation with public transport in PO. So,to that end I guess we are to assume that he wishes to spend a good deal of time exploring here and other parts of the country. There is plenty to see !

Living as I do in the area,I ,for my part, just feel that ALB would not necessarily be the best base with that in mind,and would urge Bernard to ,whilst not ruling it out,explore other accommodation possibilities.

blackduff · Post by **blackduff** » Sat 01 Jan 2011 17:21

I still think Argeles is still a good place for Bernard. The train connection is great ~ Perpignan, up the road to Toulouse, further up to Lyon, Paris, etc..

The other direction down to Spain is so fast. You can visit Figueres, Girona and Barcelona quickly.

There's also a small train which hauls around the village and the beach. For walking, the beach area is perfect.

Pricewise Argeles isn't cheap but you have to seach and shop for a place. If you compare Amelie housing prices, you're going to find it's not cheap there neither.

Maybe is the bargain price if Bernard changes dates and takes something in the end of September~October. It's usually nice in that time of the year.

St. Cyprien plage is another choice but the transportation is poor, in comparison with Argeles.

I know of two places which rent bikes in Argeles. You can also find Quads for rent too. And remeber, the beaches of Argeles are tops.

Blackduff

Santiago · Post by **Santiago** » Sun 02 Jan 2011 10:21

I'm trying to read between the lines to see what Bernard is really looking for as, like John, from the first post, Amelie would seem an odd choice given the reliance on public transport and tendon problems.

I would advise doing some more internet research on the area and making sure that this is the spot in which you really want to base yourself. Having heard that you want to go to Brittany and the Alps, perhaps somewhere a but more central, well-serviced and with softer terrain would be more suitable.

I'm suspecting that you've come across a very reasonably-priced apartment in Amelie and are hoping to make it fit in with the holiday you have planned. If I was a travel agent I would be urging you to consider some wider options.

bernardh198 · Post by **bernardh198** » Mon 03 Jan 2011 04:34

Santiago,

You're quite right. I am a cheapskate.

Let me explain. I have been to this region before, but only briefly - to Collioure and Montpellier - and marked it as a place I would like to see more of on a future visit.

In the past [the last 5 trips] I have based myself solely in Paris with TGV trips to Normandy, Strasbourg, Biarritz, Montpellier, Nice, Tarn et Garonne, Belle Ile en Mer, Italy and the Loire. This year I have decided to spend just one month in Paris and two months in the country. I have therefore looked for something less expensive which is difficult in the holiday season especially anywhere near the beach - as an Australian beaches are of little interest when looking for something new and different.

What I like about this area is that the mountain/hilly areas are affordable for a two months stay and I can get access to the flatter plain by bus and bike. Remember everything I see is new - the vegetation, the architecture, the food, the language, the culture, the shops, travel, . . .
and the added bonus is that here, I can access first hand, in depth information about the local area through this forum and its very generous members - in English.

I come to Europe in the summer to escape the 'rigours' of an Australian winter - even though Brisbane is regarded as sub-tropical, its winters have been getting quite cold and unseasonably wet for months on end. The houses, especially the old ones, like mine, have big, high ceilinged rooms built of timber and tin and let the cold in because of poor insulation. This was put-upable when the cold weather lasted for only a couple of weeks - but now the usually dry, bright sunny days have been replaced by cold, wet windy weather. It reminds me of London - and it’s so depressing.

Amelie-les- Bains or Ceret seem to provide many of the things I love about France - apart from the culture and history, they're small, cheap, cooler and less crowded than the coast.

On top of this there is the added attraction of being so close to Spain and Barcelona.

Thanks for your input. I very much appreciate it.

Bernard

john · Post by **john** » Mon 03 Jan 2011 09:19

bernardh198 wrote:Amelie-les- Bains or Ceret seem to provide many of the things I love about France - apart from the culture and history, they're small, cheap, cooler and less crowded than the coast.

I certainly would not describe Céret as either "cheap" or "uncrowded" in the summer months Bernard ! But I take your point. Amelie may be a little less expensive then.

The concept of Queensland being cold is not one we Europeans can imagine,Bernard. When I was in Cairns and Townsville it was hot,even in the early spring,but thats a fair way away,and I'm sure it's all relative. Presumably you are a bit far South to be affected by all these dreadful floods that the State is suffering at the moment ?

bernardh198 · Post by **bernardh198** » Tue 04 Jan 2011 00:25

John,

When I say Ceret is cheap and quiet, I mean relative to the coast in high season. I have found a very reasonable, pleasant, quiet, ground floor apartment there, just in case the one in Amelie falls through, though it is about 2 km from the village centre. I have yet to hear from the owner.

As to the floods here, my family home is in Rockhampton [Rocky] which is now cut off by road. rail and air [except helicopters] and is surrounded by water. Luckily the house there is well above the flood levels. I was up there for Xmas and just made it out before the road to Brisbane was cut.

Bernard

Santiago · Post by **Santiago** » Tue 04 Jan 2011 19:47

Thanks for clarifying, Bernard. I'm still not convinced Amelie is the best choice but am trying to thing of other places to recommend you researching.

I think access to public transport is perhaps your main factor. The SNCF is good but not that extensive here. I'm thinking that Blackduff's suggestion of Argeles is interesting. The town itself is perhaps a bit shabby but has lots of life. There are plenty of nice walks and bike rides in all directions and it has a train station to the Spanish border and Perpignan. It will be roasting hot in summer though.

Another option would be Prades. On the train line, lots of excellent walks and buses to to some of the most interesting places. Cooler than other towns. Plenty of shops, cafés and restaurants. It's relatively cheap too.

Alternatively look at the Minervois in a town that has a train to Carcassonne and Narbonne.

Or what about Figueres?

FORUM